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Defining New York style is impossible. Like good taste, people who have it rarely have need to discuss it, and ironically those thoroughly lacking it are usually the first ones to espouse it. Usually very loudly. With their mouths full.
In the fashion melting pot, style lines have blurred. Ladies who lunch are finding their way out of the kingdom of the Upper East Side and discovering the wealth of designers in the far off land of the east village. Conversely, the denizens of the refurbished land of alphabet city (when is the last time you heard that term?!) have been spotted in Bergdorf’s. The point being that zip codes no longer define personal style. Uptown has become more relaxed, even playful while downtown has grown up a bit. Of course we will always have “punks” on Saint Mark’s wearing black rebel gear by Fruit of the Loom and screaming “Anarchy” on the long bus ride back home to Jersey. And yes, the ghosts of Mortimer’s will forever haunt Madison Avenue like Jocelyn Wildenstein in search of a decent perm but there are now more options than ever and women do not have to be held hostage by the House of Chanel in order to feel fashionable.
To first get a handle on the retail scene below 14th Street, I spoke to Vashti de Verteuil at Gallery Vercon (332 East Ninth Street). Having been in the same location for over 18 years, the charming Verteuil is the undisputed grand dame of east village finery. First and foremost a jewelry designer specializing in sterling silver and semi as well as precious gems, Vashti has become the curator of a gallery of wearable art. As eclectic as it’s surrounding neighborhood, Gallery Vercon offers some of the most original pieces in town. An entire wall is dedicated to bridal headdresses. Note – these are not your traditional veils! These are fantasy pieces seemingly plucked from a renaissance fairy tale. There is even the story of the bride who tapped Verteuil to create a headdress to go along with her Versace couture gown.
Having opened her doors in the big bad 80’s when the area was like a skinhead wild west, Vashti has seen it all. “Lots of drug dealers, lots of break-ins. I was kind of a pioneer in those days. People thought I was crazy!’’ she recalls. Like all good gallery owners, Vashti has managed to attract true design stars. Case in point, British designer Rosie Neira whose sculptural dresses and suits are infinitely wearable and are miraculously flattering on a range of body types. Playing with a layering effect of silk organza Neira’s designs subtly demand attention without ever distracting from the woman wearing it. By focusing on silhouette and attitude, Neira is able create pieces that flatter the individual and are not beholden to season or the dreaded “retail fashion trend” as interpreted by overly caffeinated department store buyers. She even manages to give a tweed suit a sexy life of it's own. Not one to mince words Rosie exclaims “I want to end the dictatorship that is fashion! Sometimes I see women wearing something that is a little too tight for them and I think they should change. But then I say you know that’s pretty good. It’s as if she is saying I know I am big and this is tight but fuck you I like it I am going to do what I want!” Indeed, she has successfully married an uptown sensibility with a decidedly downtown aesthetic. Hunky handbag designer Michael Fox combines form with function in his oversized bags - there is always a special place for a cell phone and a bottle of water! The inside of his bags are as decorated as the outside. “I think many women like to look at the inside of their bags as much as the outside” says Fox. “To them it is something special just for them; maybe they will show their best girlfriends.”
A must-see destination is milliner Barbara Feinman’s jewel like shop at 66 East 7th Street. For anyone who thinks hats are accessories only for grandmothers and Joan Collins, think again! Feinman boasts being “fashion forward and highly wearable.” “My typical customer lives in the neighborhood, probably works uptown and has enough income to dress well but does not want spend like crazy” say’s the bubbly designer.
Feinman offers a level of service to her clients rarely seen this side of the Champs d’Elysee. Working individually with each customer she guarantees a perfect fit and the right silhouette. From fedoras to cloches, Feinman offers couture quality and shockingly reasonable prices. A visit to Jill Anderson (331 East 9th Street) will not only get you a fabulous new wardrobe, but a new best friend in the instantly likable designer. Like Rosie Neira, Anderson draws inspiration from designers like Yamamoto and legendary houses like Comme de Garcon. Silhouettes have a sculptural quality, fabrics are lush but comfortable. Women who shop at Jill Anderson seem to become friends with the whole staff. Friday nights wine and cheese is served and Anderson, a North Dakota transplant, is on hand to personally fit the garments, pour the wine and tell a few stories. You just can’t get that at Saks.
Part of the reason Anderson has garnered such a loyal following is the fact that she designs for real women. “I am often inspired by the holes I find in my own wardrobe and what my customers tell me they need.” The interactive elements between customer and designer have created a tremendously loyal group of followers. One client discovered Anderson by accident. Her sister used to live in the space that is now the Jill Anderson boutique. At first curious just to see the renovation of the space, Jill’s timeless designs soon got the best of her. Six years later she still is coming back.
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© 2007 Mikal Saint George |
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